Downtown Los Angeles
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Metro LA has
More Spanish
Speakers
Than Mexico’s 2nd & 3rd
largest cities combined.
In 1776 on the East Coast of North America, colonists launched a war for independence. That same year, on the West Coast, Spanish colonists and missionaries founded Los Angeles.
The fact that LA was originally part of Spain, then Mexico, and founded in part by Catholic missionaries…
… created the deep roots that the Spanish language, Mexican culture and identity as well as the impact Christianity, and specifically the Catholic faith, have all had in shaping who and what LA and Southern California are today.
While much of the rest of the United States is just now awakening to the presence of their Latin(x) neighbors and what that means for their local cultures, Los Angeles has always been a cross-roads of culture and a place for the faithful to worship in their own way. Nowhere else in Los Angeles do you see this diversity played out as much as you do in and around the downtown area.
The Los Angeles metropolitan area is the 5th largest Spanish-speaking region in the world and the largest in the United States.
It’s not a recent phenomenon either. The linguistic and cultural borders of humanity are fluid, as each wave of immigration to the US has proven. The roots of a place however, have a lot to say about how we speak.
Spanish was spoken here before English. People often forget that. That does not diminish the importance of English to the culture of California or the US. It’s just a fact and an important reality that Spanish has a founding place in Californian culture. That place carries through to today.
In some industries, if you don’t speak at least some Spanish, you can’t be effective at your job to the same degree that not speaking English limits your potential. Both languages coexist here. In some areas English is dominant and in other areas Spanish is.
While some will say “This is America, we should speak English here.” if one knows the history of this country, one knows that there was a time when German was spoken so widely that it almost became the official language of Congress. English won by only one vote.
There is no question that English is a foundational language world-wide and speaking English when living in the US gives one a distinct advantage. It is our national language and that will not change in our lifetimes. Yet there’s something to be said for being open to speaking more than one language because in doing so you are opening your brain to ways of thinking and problem-solving.
I’m speaking from experience in having studied six languages in my life. Each one attacks logic and communication differently. So imagine what happens in your brain if you speak more than one language. It means that you have trained your brain how to solve the same problem in a different way. That in turn teaches the brain how to get creative when solving other problems.
So in thinking about the presence of so many languages and knowing that there are at least 5 languages spoken in Southern California by more than 500,000 people each, does this multi-lingual society create innovation? Does the presence of so many people interacting with so many cultures at one time open minds and program brain pathways that provide for new ideas?
Is this multi-cultural / multi-lingual environment contributing to scientific and economic innovation? Does it create more artists and musicians? Is it a coincidence that the film industry is headquartered here? Or that so many innovative industries got their start here?
This carries over to spirituality and religion as well.
Following this one street in both directions out of downtown you come across numerous churches of all denominations including Catholics, Presbyterians, Russian Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, as well as Buddhist monasteries, Jewish synagogues, places like the Self Realization Fellowship and the headquarters of the Church of Scientology - and those are the religions that I was able to see just along Sunset and Cesar Chavez.
All of this diversity is Los Angeles. Yet, when celebrating the European, Persian, Chinese or Vietnamese New Year (all in the same region within three months of each other) one cannot escape that this city, as well as the state of California, is as rooted in a unique brand of plural-cultural society found in only a handful of other places on the planet.
Los Angeles is over 100 miles north of the Mexican border - a border line that moved in 1848 - while the heart and soul of this great world city has remained rooted in the same physical place.
Wave after wave of immigration has brought people together from places as diverse as Armenia, Korea, Ethiopia and El Salvador. As walls are built along political borders, Sunset Boulevard and Avenida Cesar Chavez are a real-world bridge between cultures and belief systems that span well beyond the borders of the United States.
For decades Downtown LA was a place you passed through
Now over 5,000 people per year are moving here.
Whereas just a few decades ago one could see the explosion of suburban sprawl from the skyscrapers here in downtown…
… Now entire blocks in and around downtown are being redeveloped to accommodate the demand for housing in the urban core. New districts are being recreated out of old tired, neglected blight. Everyone from European tourists to hipsters to rich Asian expats can be found living and circulating in downtown alongside the largely Latin American immigrant labor force that has always been the backbone of this region. The area is also home to a significant African American community whose contributions to the region have been so important, that a few Metro stops away from this side of Downtown, you can visit the California African American Museum where that contribution is memorialized.
On the edge of Downtown, near the African American Museum and the California Science Center (which houses the Endeavor Space Shuttle) is the Coliseum which will soon host its 3rd Olympic Games.
In the space in between our route across LA and the Coliseum, you have the Financial District which houses the shortest railroad in the world, and faning out from there the Jewelry District, Toy District, Fashion District and Flower District. Many of the businesses in these districts are owned by Persian Jews who fled the Iranian Revolution to come to thrive in the tolerant and welcoming climate of LA.
Nouveau socialites in their penthouses live right next to the homeless who have camped out on these streets for years. The contrast of rich and poor is immediately evident. As the developers have built taller and taller buildings, a larger and larger number of tent encampments have been erected on sidewalks and under bridges; a constant reminder that not everyone is benefitting from the growth and the wealth being generated here.
To meet the infrastructural needs of this rapidly changing environment, billions are being invested in new subway lines, new parks, new schools and new retail shopping areas to create a home out of what was once a forgotten landscape, void of civilization after dark. With new sports venues and concert halls and museums all centered in or adjacent to downtown, how people live an enriched urban life has a new poster child.
What goes out, must go up.
The microcosm of Downtown LA is answering a question many cities around the country and the world are asking: How do you accommodate a diverse population with different needs and wants into a confined space that is functional, enjoyable and ultimately a place that creates and grows cultures and economies?
LA is going vertical and not just here in the downtown core but in almost every one of those former villages and hamlets turned suburban community attached at the hip by a web of pavement known as freeways. All across Southern California you will find developments looking to replicate what is happening in downtown LA. Developers call them “Lifestyle Centers” but whatever you call them, they are a mix of residential, retail, office and cultural spaces in a walkable environment. These areas are the antithesis of suburban sprawl where you need a car for everything.
For the past 15 years, this transformation has spread to areas like Hollywood which is seeing its own gentrification and verticalization. Even in places like Orange County, governments and developers are experimenting with the model that has been tested here in downtown LA.
On the opposite end of downtown LA from where these photos were all taken, there is a place known the world over as “LA Live.” When it was first conceived people would say “It’s LA’s version of Times Square.” But nothing in that name or in the set up of the space is anything like Times Square. It’s pure entertainment centered on sports, dining, live music and shopping. Go a little bit further out and you have the LA Convention Center. It’s a place where tourists and locals come together to enjoy life. So when developers in Dallas, Texas wanted to create an entertainment district around their stadiums and arenas, what did they name it? …”Texas Live.”
Closer to this side of town you have world famous museums and concert halls. The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), The Broad and the Walt Disney Concert Hall are all located here near a number of great theaters. New parks and schools and retail services have come in to accommodate the nearly 5,000 people moving here every year.
One thing is for certain: LA is a trend-setting place. And love LA or hate it, what is happening in this urban core will be replicated all across the US and around the world in the years and decades to come.